Love at first sight
Some loves begin quite unexpectedly. Ours for Verona and the Valpolicella wine region actually began unexpectedly in Amsterdam.
In 2018, we attended the Little Italy event. By then, we’d already been quite passionate about Italy for a few years: the delicious food, the beautiful landscapes, the rich culture, and, of course, the most delicious wines. At the event, we stumbled upon a wine merchant where we tasted an Amarone. One glass was enough. We were instantly sold.
Not long after, in the spring, we took a wine tour of Northern Italy with my in-laws. Of course, we couldn’t resist visiting the winery behind that Amarone: Villa Canestrari. That’s where we were introduced not only to the wine but also to the region where it was produced. And it was precisely that combination of wine, scenery, and Italian hospitality that proved dangerously charming.
It was the beginning of a love that has, in fact, only grown stronger since then.
Falling in love with the city of love
During that first trip, we stayed just north of Verona, at the Corte San Mattia agriturismo and winery. What a view! From the hills, we looked right out over Verona.
One of the best ways we got to experience Verona was during a guided bike tour. That way, in a short amount of time, you not only discover the famous sights but also the narrow streets and stories you’d otherwise easily miss.
Of course, we visited the famous balcony of Romeo and Juliet. Touristy? Definitely. But when you’re in Verona for the first time, it’s just part of the experience.
The Arena di Verona was also on our itinerary. This Roman amphitheater in the heart of the city is impressive in its own right, but it’s especially famous for the operas performed there every summer. During our first visit, we were unfortunately just a bit too early in the season, which normally runs from mid-June to mid-September.
Since then, we’ve made it a point to drive through Verona and the Valpolicella region whenever possible when traveling to Italy by car. That’s how we’ve since stayed at the Massimago winery and become fans of the Amarone wines from Stefano Accordini, the highest-altitude winery in the Valpolicella Classico region. The fact that we ended up here was actually pure coincidence. For lunch, we ended up—again by chance—at Osteria Numero Uno in Fumane. We met another Dutch couple there and struck up a conversation. When we asked if they could recommend a good winery (they lived here half the year and knew the area very well), they suggested Stefano Accordini. “Go straight up the mountain from here, and it’s on the left after the 11th turn.” A beautiful drive, a fantastic view, and… indeed, some truly delicious wine.
The Wines and Wine Regions in the Area
If you love wine (after all, you’re reading an article from the wine special edition of Live in Italy Magazine), you’re in particularly good hands around Verona.
The most famous wine from the area is without a doubt the red Amarone della Valpolicella. Valpolicella lies directly north of Verona and consists of a beautiful landscape of hills, vineyards, and small villages.
What makes Amarone special is the way it’s made. After the harvest, the grapes aren’t pressed immediately but are first dried for several months. This process is called appassimento. During the drying process, the grapes lose moisture, causing their sugars, aromas, and flavors to become more concentrated. They are then fermented. The result is usually a powerful, full-bodied, and complex red wine, often with flavors of dried fruit, cherries, and spices. It’s a wine to sit back and savor.
But there are even more wine regions to discover around Verona.
To the east of the city lies the Soave wine region, known for its dry white wines. A great reason to drive there is not only the wine itself, but also the charming town of Soave with the impressive Castello di Soave towering high above the village.
If you head west instead, you’ll soon reach Lake Garda. Around Bardolino, among other places, lovely rosé wines are produced. Bardolino itself is lively and quite touristy, but definitely a pleasant spot for an afternoon or evening by the lake.
The great thing is that all these areas are relatively close to one another. From Verona, you can therefore easily explore several wine regions. On the map, you can clearly see how compactly they’re all clustered together.
And that’s what makes Verona extra special in our opinion: you can stroll through a historic city in the morning and find yourself among the vineyards in the afternoon. You migh find some inspiration for a winery visit and tasting tour in the Wineries near Verona map.
Opera at the Arena: Third Time’s the Charm
There’s really only one thing we haven’t managed to do in Verona so far: attend an opera at the Arena di Verona.
During our first visit in 2018, the opera season hadn’t started yet. Performances usually take place during the summer months, so we were simply too early.
No problem, we thought. We’ll do it next time.
So, for our next trip in 2020, we’d already bought tickets. Great seats, an opera at the Arena. Everything was set. But that trip turned out very differently than planned: because of the pandemic, the trip was canceled altogether.
Last summer, we gave it another try and had tickets for the Arena for the second time. We were enjoying a wonderful trip through an unusually warm Italy, with stops in Florence, the Chianti wine region, and Bologna (a must-visit: a beautiful city!), among other places.
But due to family circumstances, we had to return home unexpectedly early.
And so, the Arena remains on our list once again.
By now, we can laugh about it. Apparently, some things just take a little longer. Next year -or the year after that- we’ll go for attempt number three.
Third time’s the charm, as they say.
Discover the city and the region
For us, the combination of Verona and the Valpolicella wine region is one of the most beautiful things Italy has to offer. Though that’s, of course, very personal. After all, Italy has plenty of places to fall in love with.
But if you’re in the area, we definitely wouldn’t skip Verona.
It’s a great city to explore on your own. Just wander around, turn down a side street every now and then, and see where you end up. If you’d like a bit more context, you can take a guided tour. We really enjoyed the bike tour, but a walking tour or a food & wine tour seems just as appealing to us.
Verona also has its own airport, making the city easily accessible. But flying into Milan is also a good option. From there, it takes about one and a half to two hours to drive to Verona in a rental car, depending on the airport and traffic.
And if you’re on the road anyway, you can turn it into a wonderful little wine adventure. South of Lake Iseo lies the Franciacorta wine region, famous for its Italian sparkling wine made using the traditional method. It’s a particularly delightful stopover before continuing on to Verona.
But ultimately, the same applies to travel as to wine: so many people, so many tastes.
We fell in love with romantic and beautiful Verona, with the hills of Valpolicella, and perhaps also a little with that first Amarone that started it all.
Maybe that will happen to you, too. There’s only one way to find out.
Discover it for yourself.
Salute!
Dennis
