Experience the Amalfi Coast Like a Local

Picture yourself waking up in Positano. The sun is shining over the Mediterranean, colorful buildings are scattered along the cliffs, and the scent of fresh lemons and saltwater fills the air. You sit down for breakfast overlooking the sea, watching the boats and ferries make their way along one of Italy’s most iconic coastlines. It sounds like a dream, right? Now insert yourself in it!

Sandy and Phil of Total Tuscany enjoying a sunset overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and dramatic cliffs of Capri, Italy.
Phil &if Sandy Ferretti | All images © Total Tuscany

For Sandy and Phil Ferretti, their connection to the Amalfi Coast goes back nearly two decades. Even after making Italy their permanent home in 2018, they continued returning to Positano and Capri summer after summer. Each time they’d return to the same restaurants, travel with the same local driver, and reconnect with the people they’d come to know over the years. Over time, these weren’t simply vacation acquaintances anymore – they had become genuine friendships. In fact, Sandy describes the coast as becoming their “second home in Italy.”

And because of this, Sandy and Phil have discovered that the most memorable travel experiences begin with genuine relationships. It’s a philosophy they already developed with years of leading their Total Tuscany group tours: small-group retreats where you will explore, eat, and drink your way through Tuscany. Now they’re bringing that same philosophy further south with Amazing Amalfi, a weeklong, personally hosted experience revealing a more intimate side of the Amalfi Coast.

So, What is Amazing Amalfi?

Colorful waterfront buildings and fishing boats in Marina Grande on the island of Capri, with mountains rising behind the harbor at sunset.


Maybe the easiest way to understand the Amazing Amalfi experience is to imagine arriving on the Amalfi Coast already knowing exactly who to call. This is how Sandy and Phil describe the concept behind this retreat: “What if you had friends on the Amalfi Coast?”

And we’re not simply talking about friends who can help with dinner reservations. Sandy and Phil have spent years building genuine friendships with the people who call the Amalfi Coast home. They personally know the boat captains, the farm owners, the local families, and the people behind the villa where guests stay. Through Amazing Amalfi, they invite their guests into those friendships, creating an experience that feels less like a traditional tour and more like being welcomed by friends who are sharing a place they love.

One major benefit of the retreat is that it is capped at twelve guests across six suites. With such an intimate group, the experience feels more like a holiday with friends. There is plenty of time to get to know your fellow travelers, share stories over long lunches, and enjoy the destinations together. Plus, Sandy and Phil personally host each departure, meaning you’ll have them by your side for guidance throughout the week!

The home base for the week is Villa Mary, where owners Tiziana and Antonio embody the kind of personal hospitality the Ferrettis seek out when building their retreats. Perched above Positano, the villa offers beautiful terraces, incredible Mediterranean views, and a swimming pool overlooking the famous village below. 

Imagine starting each morning with breakfast on the terrace, spending a little downtime relaxing by the pool, and returning after a full day of exploring to a place where the owners already know and greet you. It’s this feeling of being welcomed into someone’s home that makes Villa Mary such an important part of the experience.

The personal connections extend to the journey itself. Tony Taxi, Sandy and Phil’s longtime friend and trusted transportation partner, brings something much more valuable than simply knowing how to navigate the coast’s winding roads.  Tony is a fifth-generation Positano local: he knows the roads, the people, and the traditions that make this region so special. 

Between the familiar faces at Villa Mary and Tony’s local knowledge, you quickly begin to see how the relationships behind this retreat extend into nearly every portion of the week.

Now let’s explore what an unforgettable week on the Amalfi Coast looks like.  Sandy and Phil have curated an itinerary that makes sure you see all the iconic Amalfi Coast spots while also giving you opportunities to experience the region through its food, history, and local traditions.

Four travelers enjoying a private boat excursion near Capri's famous Faraglioni rock formations in the Mediterranean Sea.


Kicking off the first full day of the trip is a visit to Capri. Guests will first be introduced to Capri from the sea, spending the day aboard a private boat and stopping to swim in secluded coves along the way. If conditions allow, there is even an opportunity to visit the Blue Grotto before arriving by boat for a seaside lunch.

Later in the week you’ll have time to explore Capri by land. This time you’ll see a different perspective of the island. There will be time to ride around the island in the open-air taxis, take the chairlift to Monte Solaro, and even admire the beautiful hand-painted majolica floors at the Chiesa di San Michele. You can enjoy lunch overlooking the Bay of Naples before having some free time around town, shopping and exploring further. 

What I particularly love about this itinerary is that you get to experience Capri from two completely different perspectives. One day is spent enjoying the island’s spectacular coastline and turquoise waters, while another is dedicated to its villages, architecture, shops, and restaurants. It’s a wonderful opportunity to appreciate everything that makes Capri so special, both on and off the water!

A Taste of Campania

Sandy sampling a traditional Italian street food specialty beside a market stall selling fresh fruit and local products.


Of course, you can’t come to the region of Campania and not discuss the food. And for Sandy and Phil, food is much more than something to enjoy between all the sightseeing stops. It’s one of the best ways to learn about a region’s history, traditions, and people.

One evening will be spent at Villa Mary where a private chef will guide you through a hands-on cooking class. You’ll learn how to turn local ingredients (think eggplant, buffalo ricotta, Amalfi lemons) into a delicious Italian meal. And what better way to enjoy it than sitting down together afterward, sharing the dishes you’ve prepared while overlooking Positano?

Sandy and Phil standing in front of the ancient Greek Temple of Neptune at Paestum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Campania, Italy.
Temple of Neptune at Paestum in Campania


Another day you’ll venture slightly away from the coast to visit Paestum, home to some of the best-preserved ancient Greek temples in the world. After touring the temples with a private-guide (who happens to be an archeologist!) you’ll visit a working buffalo farm. 

If you’ve never tried fresh mozzarella di bufala in Campania, you’re in for a treat. The region is famous for producing this creamy, delicious cheese, and here you’ll have the chance to see how it’s made directly at the source.

After learning about the production process, guests will sit down for a farm-to-table meal featuring local dairy products. Imagine tasting fresh mozzarella and ricotta in the very place they’re produced, surrounded by the countryside and the people who work there. It’s a pretty special way to connect what’s on your plate to where it comes from.

And the culinary discoveries don’t stop there. In Naples, the birthplace of pizza, guests will experience authentic Neapolitan pizza, with its soft, airy crust and simple, delicious ingredients. Another evening brings them to a family-run farm in the hills above Positano, where traditional recipes, local ingredients, and genuine Italian hospitality come together around the dinner table.

Clearly you’ll be eating well, but each of these lunches and dinners has been thoughtfully chosen to offer something beyond a delicious meal. Whether you’re learning about the region’s agricultural traditions, meeting local producers, or sharing recipes passed down through generations, the food becomes another way to understand Campania.

No culinary journey along the Amalfi Coast would be complete without discovering the region’s wines. Guests will venture into the beautiful hills surrounding Ravello to visit a small, family-run vineyard, where traditional winemaking practices, indigenous grape varieties, and breathtaking scenery come together for an intimate wine tasting and an authentic taste of Campania’s rich agricultural heritage.

This is an idea Sandy and Phil carried over from their Total Tuscany retreats. The goal is to introduce travelers directly to the farmers, winemakers, chefs, and producers who make Italy’s culinary traditions so special.

Luxury is Access

“Luxury is access,” Sandy explains. It’s a philosophy that has shaped everything the Ferrettis have created, from their original Total Tuscany retreats to Amazing Amalfi.

It’s having access to the vineyard owner instead of simply attending a wine tasting. It’s staying at the same villa all week and getting to know the owners instead of moving from one hotel to another every few nights. And through these relationships, the Ferrettis bring all the different pieces of the experience together. 

For Sandy and Phil, luxury isn’t necessarily defined by the most expensive hotel or the most extravagant experience. It’s all about the people you meet and the doors those relationships can open. As Sandy puts it, “The greatest luxury is not simply visiting extraordinary places, but being welcomed into them.”

And when you consider the relationships the Ferrettis have built over the years on the Amalfi Coast, it becomes clear how those connections shape the entire retreat. Every detail, from the local transportation and villa accommodations to private experiences and shared meals, is thoughtfully brought together.

The result? You simply arrive, settle in, and enjoy the week.

The Story Behind Total Tuscany

Of course, Amazing Amalfi is only one part of what Sandy and Phil have built in Italy.

The couple lives in Montepulciano, where they host their popular seven-night Total Tuscany retreats at Borgo San Vincenzo. Much like Amazing Amalfi, these experiences focus on introducing travelers to the people behind the destination. During the week you’ll meet local winemakers, farmers, artisans, and guides.

They also offer customized private itineraries for travelers looking for a more personalized experience in Italy. And for travel professionals, they’ve developed the Total Tuscany Travel Advisor Masterclass, giving advisors an opportunity to experience their approach firsthand and meet the local partners behind their retreats.

While each experience may look a little different, the philosophy is always consistent: connecting travelers with the people, food, and traditions that make Italy so special.

In fact, the concept of Amazing Amalfi grew naturally from their Total Tuscany guests asking: “Where can we travel with you next?”

From Strangers to Friends

There’s another important part of the Amazing Amalfi experience: the friendships that develop among guests. And those connections often begin long before anyone arrives on the Amalfi Coast.

A couple of months before the retreat Sandy sets up a WhatsApp group so guests can introduce themselves, ask any questions ahead of the trip, and get to know their future travel companions. Once guests arrive in Italy, shared meals, boat excursions, and long days spent exploring together help those relationships grow even stronger.

In fact, it is not uncommon for the retreat WhatsApp groups to stay active long after the tour ends – some have been active for five years and counting! 

And perhaps the strongest endorsement came with the initial response to the announcement of Amazing Amalfi: the first three retreats sold out almost immediately, driven in part by returning Total Tuscany guests.

This alone speaks volumes about the Ferrettis and the community they build. 

A Different Way to Experience the Amalfi Coast

Pizza. Positano. Limoncello. Capri. Pompeii. You’ll experience all of these must-see, must-eat, and must-do items. But what makes Amazing Amalfi especially memorable is the opportunity to connect with the people behind these experiences.

For Sandy and Phil, Amazing Amalfi is the culmination of years spent returning to a place they love and building friendships with the people who call it home. Now, they’re inviting you to become part of that experience.

As Sandy and Phil say it best:

“What if you already had friends on the Amalfi Coast?” Well, now you do!

Ready to experience the Amalfi Coast with Sandy and Phil? Discover upcoming Amazing Amalfi retreats, explore their exclusive Total Tuscany experiences, and learn more about personally hosted journeys through Italy at www.total-tuscany.com. Follow their adventures on Instagram and Facebook at @TotalTuscany.

Sara Bauer

Contributing Editor

Ciao! I am Sara, an American writer and travel blogger based in Milan, where I balance my corporate day job with a passion for exploring Italy’s hidden corners. From budget trattorias to five-star stays, I cover the full spectrum of Italian living - always with a sense of curiosity (and perhaps a Franciacorta in hand). In my free time I love skiing, musical theater, and swimming in the sea. You can discover more of my travel tips and adventures on www.sarainitalia.com and can follow me at @sara.in.italia.

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