Eating Italy: Pasta e Ceci and Two Other Recipes from Puglia

Exploring Cucina Povera

This Pasta e Ceci and two other recipes are part of my “Eating Italy” series, in which I prepare one dish from each of Italy’s twenty regions. My aim is to showcase the unique cuisine from each region, which I find so fascinating about Italian food – each has its own flavours and traditions, yet all are tied together by the use of seasonal and local ingredients.

One of my favourite things about Italian cuisine is that ‘cucina povera’ (meaning poor cooking or cuisine) is the basis of many dishes. There is a focus on simplicity; although many dishes are made with few ingredients, the ingredients are in season, good quality, and full of flavour. Cucina povera was dictated by the limited number of ingredients that were historically available in poorer Italian regions such as Puglia, where the focus of many dishes was, and still is, grains and vegetables that could be locally grown. 

Where is Puglia?

Puglia, or Apulia, which is the region situated in the ‘heel’ of the boot of Italy, has been described as the Garden of Italy; it has a deep farming heritage, and today, produces around 40% of Italy’s olive oil. It is also home to some of Italy’s, most beautiful coastlines – the shimmering blue seas are mesmerising. For this reason, seafood features quite heavily in the region’s cuisine. 

These recipes fuse the land and the sea to celebrate the simple but delicious flavours of Puglia. I hope they transport you to this beautiful region. 

PASTA E CECI

Ingredients (serves 4)

• 4 cloves garlic, peeled
• 2 onions, halved
• 4 sticks celery, halved
• 2 carrots, peeled and chopped to match celery size
• 1 can tomatoes (or fresh tomatoes/passata)
• 14 oz chickpeas (400 g)
• Herbs (rosemary, oregano)
• 10–14 oz short pasta, such as ditali (300–400 g)
• Parmesan

Note: The quantities are a rough guide, and you should feel free to use more or less.

Method

1. Cover the vegetables and chickpeas with water and simmer until soft.
2. Remove about half of the chickpeas and set aside.
3. Blend the remaining vegetable mixture with a stick blender or food processor until smooth.
4. Boil the pasta in salted water, then drain and mix with the sauce and reserved chickpeas.
5. Drizzle with chili oil (or extra virgin olive oil) and finish with Parmesan.

ORECCHIETTE CON CIME DI RAPA

Ingredients (serves 2)

• 7 oz orecchiette (200 g)
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 ¾ oz anchovies (50 g)
• 1 teaspoon chili flakes
• 9 oz cime di rapa, roughly chopped (250 g) — substitute broccoli if unavailable
• 1 cup white wine (250 ml)
• Extra virgin olive oil

Method

1. Bring a pan of salted water to a boil and cook the orecchiette for 10–12 minutes.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a pan and sauté the garlic and anchovies for 2 minutes. Add the chilli flakes.
3. Add the cime di rapa and white wine. Sauté until the wine has evaporated and the greens are tender, adding a splash of water if needed.
4. Drain the pasta and add it to the pan with a little pasta water to emulsify the sauce. Stir until combined.
5. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and freshly ground black pepper.

RISO, PATATE, COZZE

Ingredients (serves 6–8)

• 1 lb mussels, cleaned and de-bearded (500 g)
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 cup white wine (250 ml)
• 3 medium potatoes, thinly sliced (about 1 lb / 500 g)
• 2 white onions, thinly sliced into half-moons
• 9 oz cherry tomatoes, halved (250 g)
• 1 ½ cups Arborio rice (300 g)
• A handful parsley, finely chopped
• 1 ¼ cups water (300 ml)
• 2 tablespoons breadcrumbs
• Parmesan (optional)
• Extra virgin olive oil

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 390°F (200°C).
2. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a pan, add the garlic, mussels, and wine. Cook for about 5 minutes, until mussels open. Discard any that remain closed.
3. Drizzle olive oil in the bottom of a baking dish and add a layer of potatoes.
4. Top with onions, cherry tomatoes, and half the parsley.
5. Arrange mussels on top, meat side up/shell side down.
6. Sprinkle the rice over the mussels, ensuring each shell is filled.
7. Add another layer of potatoes and finish with tomatoes and the remaining parsley.
8. Pour the water around the edges, making sure the rice is covered.
9. Sprinkle breadcrumbs and Parmesan (if using) over the top, then drizzle with olive oil.
10. Bake for 1 hour, until the potatoes are crispy and the rice is cooked through.
11. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil.

Buon appetito!

Explore another recipe from Natalia’s “Eating Italy” series.

Natalia Bell

Food Contributor

Natalia is a lawyer who lives in Edinburgh, Scotland. In her spare time, she enjoys cooking for and enjoying food with the people she loves, and travelling. She has a particular interest in Italian cuisine and culture, having been fortunate enough to travel there every year whilst growing up. She speaks Italian, but is continually trying to improve her skills to a fully proficient level. She would love to live in Italy one day - but, in the meantime, she posts about food and Italy on her Instagram @buonappetitotutti