In the greenest corner of Umbria, where the hills still breathe like in the stories of farmers, spring is a promise that renews itself every year in silence. The earth stretches after winter, wild herbs dot the paths, and the first animals born between March and April take uncertain steps toward a world that smells of rebirth. It is in this setting that the legend of Agnello in Fuga (Lamb with Morels, Pea Cream, and Mint) is born.
A story that was told to me—perhaps true, perhaps imagined—but one I like to believe, as we believe in poetry: a young lamb, destined for the Easter table, decides to escape its fate. On a full moon night, it breaks free from the pen, crosses the blooming fields, runs through brambles of wild rose, and slips into the woods, guided only by instinct. No one can find it. But every year, when the last frost melts, the spignoli (morels)—those mysterious mushrooms—return to the same spot, as if remembering its passage.
Spignoli: A Mushroom Shrouded in Mystery
Spignoli, or morels, are perhaps the most enigmatic and fascinating mushrooms in our culinary tradition. They grow suddenly, when the air still stings, and disappear without a trace as if they never existed. Their reticulated cap is a small cathedral of the underbrush. Some mycologists say they feed on ghosts: they grow where the earth has been wounded, after a fire, a landslide, or a return.
For me, bringing spignoli into this dish means giving meaning to the lamb’s journey: an escape that is not born of fear, but of search; a departure that is not loss, but transformation. The intense, earthy flavor of these mushrooms intertwines with the delicacy of Easter lamb and the sweetness of peas like a fairytale that returns to its starting point, but with different eyes. May this “gourmet Easter” inspire you to new escapes, new returns, and new flavors to share. May your lamb, real or symbolic, find its way through the wonders of a kitchen that is always storytelling, mystery, and beauty.
Agnello in Fuga (Lamb with Morels, Pea Cream, and Mint)
Ingredients for 4 People
- 1.3 lbs lamb tenderloin or loin (600 g)
- 2/3 cup fresh peas (150 g) or frozen of good quality
- 1 bunch fresh mint
- 7 oz fresh morel mushrooms (200 g) or 1 oz dried (rehydrated)
- 8 small young carrots
- 1 shallot
- 1 garlic clove, with skin
- 1/4 cup vegetable broth (100 ml)
- 1/4 cup dry white wine (50 ml)
- 1/4 cup full-bodied red wine for reduction (50 ml)
- Extra virgin olive oil, as needed
- Butter, as needed
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 1 oz aged Pecorino cheese, grated (30 g)
- Toasted almond crumbs
- Fresh mint for decoration
Method
- Prepare the Pea and Mint Cream:
In a pan, sauté the chopped shallot in a bit of olive oil. Add the peas and cook with a ladle of broth for 5-6 minutes. Blend with a few mint leaves and a drizzle of olive oil until smooth. Season with salt and keep warm. - Prepare the Morels:
Gently clean the fresh morels and sauté them in a pan with a bit of butter, crushed garlic, and white wine. Do not overcook: their elegance lies in the brevity of their cooking time. - Cook the Carrots:
Blanch the young carrots for 5 minutes, then toss them in a pan with a bit of oil and a pinch of salt. They should remain crunchy, lively, as if just harvested. - Cook the Lamb:
Now, slice the lamb into medallions and sear them over high heat in olive oil. Cook for 2-3 minutes per side to keep the inside pink. Remove from the pan and let rest. Deglaze the pan with the red wine and reduce to create a thick, glossy sauce. - Plating:
Spread the pea cream as a base on the plates. Place the lamb medallions on top, add the morels carefully, and arrange the carrots like small forest paths. Finish with the red wine reduction and, if desired, a few edible petals or spring sprouts for decoration.
Wine Pairing:
Pair this dish with a Montefalco Rosso Riserva or an aged Chianti Classico: vibrant, savory, and deep.
