When the winter is over, Trieste may hold a surprise for you. Don’t let a beautiful sunny week fool you and plan smart.
The wild wind has always been spontaneous, but some days the weather turns unexpectedly more provocative. Walking can become mission impossible when the wind is stronger than you. Good news for you, there are many ways to explore a city from the inside.
Instead of exploring the main piazza, what about exploring memorable Caffès and Osterias that were the home of writers like James Joyce or Italo Svevo?
There are two types of visitors. The ones who plan everything months in advance and the hesitant but optimistic tourist that enjoys walking without destination. The second one may want to decide where to eat based on the vibe of the restaurants, which means that they will explore the city very well before finding a suitable choice.
But not everything is that easy. Sometimes you need reservations. Other times you want to rush into the first place you find because being outside is too cold for waiting. The price of choosing out of rush, most times, leaving with the gut of having forgotten something. You don’t get to know a city until you taste it.
Food is quite an important part of the trip. By getting to know what people eat you can try to understand their culture, custom and even behaviours.
Did you really come if you didn’t try any typical food?
Buffet da Pepi
One of the oldest buffets here. A living monument of Austro-Hungarian culture spread into Triestinian cuisine in the past. Some of their best options:
Caldaia:
An absolute must if you’re not scared of some blood and meat. In a simple plate you will get to try all boiled meat from the tongue to the legs.
Jota:
A traditional Triestine soup made with beans, sauerkraut, potatoes, and pork. Rich and perfect for cold days.
Panino cotto al kren:
So strong it might make you sneeze at first. Not mustard, not Indian spice—it’s kren. Give it a moment.
Osteria da Scarpon
It’s better to reserve in person a couple days before. Once a working class place, today, Osteria da Scarpon is the perfect place to treat yourself or surprise family visiting you for the first time.
The fish and all seafood are seriously good. The real attraction is getting to know the owner, with a particular life story. He’s an absolute five-star host. Don’t be surprised if he approaches your table to ask about your life and exchange a few words in your language. After the meal, be sure to try some coffee or a liqueur from the house.
Buffet da Rudy
One of my favorites for winter, Oktoberfest season, and even during this unpredictable weather. You get to try real Triestinian food. Some meat from here. Some fish from there. First, second, and a little bit more. Fair prices and good service. And if you are unsure about what to choose, feel free to stand up and look at what’s on display.
My go-to:
- Goulash
- Patate in tecia
- Bollito Misto e crauti
- Gnocchi del giorno
Lovat Caffè
A café inside a library, with a view of the viale. One word: nostalgic.
Walking through the bookshop, you’ll feel like the main character in a 2000s film—a rainy day, somewhere in the past. Nothing is more relaxing than browsing Italian, English, and international titles while holding a capo in B in your hand.
To enter, you’ll need to pass through the OVS shop first.
Antico Caffè Torinese
Beautiful inside. A great choice if you’re looking for something not too expensive, yet still a classy place to stop. It’s traditional, with a relaxed atmosphere. My tip? Try special Spritz flavors you won’t find elsewhere. Perfect for conversations with a friend or a small group.
A Timely Visit
The beauty of exploring a city from the inside is that it leaves you craving a return. For now, savor the hearty meats of the Triestine spring while the air is still crisp. When the Bora settles and the sun is here to stay, the soundtrack of the city shifts to the shores of Barcola. Soon, the scent of fritto misto and the sight of ice-cold carafes of Spritz will be calling your name.
Every season has a different taste. And you? In which season does Trieste taste best to you?
