If you are looking for a trip that truly embodies il dolce far niente, the green island of Ischia is the place to go. The largest of the three volcanic islands off the coast of Naples, Ischia is known for its lush greenery, thermal waters, and ancient ruins.
I visited Ischia in October, and whilst the trip itself wasn’t what I had planned (it was supposed to be a yoga retreat that ended up being a scam which I fortunately escaped!), Ischia itself exceeded my expectations. The scenery, people, and overall vibes and lifestyle of the island are beautiful.
Exploring the three volcanic Islands
From Ischia, you can visit the islands of Procida (I spent 24 hours on Procida, which you can read about here) and Capri. To get to Capri, I went on a private tour with Airbabo – a boat charter service, which I would highly recommend. It was a great way to explore the beautiful crystal-clear waters and admire the natural beauty of hidden caves and scenery. If the weather allows, you can take a smaller boat to explore the famous Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto).
Where to stay and what to do on Ischia
A special shoutout and grazie mille to Mario, a captain at Airbabo, who helped me and some others to escape the aforementioned yoga retreat scam, and who brought us to the wonderful O’Vagnitiello in Casamicciola Terme – a hydrothermal park that uses water from the Bagnitiello thermal spring in Casamicciola, with a small hotel and restaurant. It is built on a terrace in a bay and feels like part of the landscape – you can sense the respect for the nature and history, and see the thoughtful and considered choices. It is peaceful and private; a truly relaxing retreat with breathtaking views – I would highly recommend this hotel and am forever grateful that I ended up there by chance.
You can even visit O’Vagnitiello for a day (rather than staying there) and I would recommend it over the other thermal springs that I visited on Ischia. I also went to Giardini Poseidon Terme which were lovely, but very touristy and not as relaxing to me as O’Vagnitiello (Poseidon had been described to me as a Disneyland for adults, and, after visiting, I wouldn’t disagree). There are also Negombo thermal baths on Ischia, which I have been told are less touristy than Poseidon. The thermal waters on Ischia are rich in minerals and thought to have healing properties. Erboristeria Le Mie Erbe – a charming herbal pharmacy on one of Ischia’s main shopping streets, Corso Vittoria Colonna – has several products made using the thermal waters and mud from the island.
Castello Aragonese
You may recognise Castello Aragonese; the iconic castle of Ischia built on a volcanic rock, with panoramic views of the island. Its name originates from the dynasty that most influenced Ischia: Alfonso I of Aragon in the 15th century AD. The Castle is home to exhibitions of modern and ancient art, a bookshop with a thoughtful selection of books and souvenirs, a café and restaurant, and the beautiful L’Albergo del Monastero hotel (which was previously a convent). From Castello Aragonese, you can see why Ischia is called the green island.
One thing I unfortunately didn’t have time to do, but will definitely do on my next trip to Ischia, is hike Mount Epomeo – the highest point on Ischia. There are some vineyards on Epomeo – the rich volcanic soils are known for creating some unique wines.
What to eat
Ischia’s most iconic dish is coniglio all’Ischitana – a rabbit stew with white wine, tomatoes, lemon, herbs, and local olive oil. Trattoria Il Focolare – a restaurant in Casamicciola featured on Stanley Tucci’s “Searching for Italy” is famous for its coniglio.
I was fortunate to have visited Ischia during porcini season and had fresh porcini during my stay at O’Vagnitiello, enjoyed with some fantastic local wines.
Whilst the island of Procida is known for its lemons, there are a lot of lemons on Ischia, too – the coastal air and volcanic soils are the perfect climate for citrus fruit.
On Capri, I had spaghetti alle vongole at Ristorante da Ciro – which I would recommend for the beautiful views of Faraglioni alone.
How to get there
From Naples International Airport, take the Alibus to Molo Beverello ferry terminal (around 30 minutes and only €5). Then, you can take either a ferry or hydrofoil (high speed ferry) to Ischia – the journey takes less than an hour.
The ferry and hydrofoil schedules vary depending on the season, so I’d recommend checking and booking in advance. I used this website for timetables and to book my ticket: Naples Beverello to Ischia (All Ports) Ferry Tickets and Schedules.
I look forward to returning to this green island soon to enjoy all that it has to offer and experiencing the beauty of nature, wellness, and tranquillity.
