Travel Guide: Genoa
For Ferragosto, I spent a long weekend in Genoa – a large port city in the region of Liguria. I would describe it as a genuine hidden gem; it is a city full of history, art, architecture, and delicious food.
How to get there:
I flew to Milan and took the train to Genoa. Whilst it was a very efficient journey and only took around an hour and a half, I’d recommend flying to Genoa Airport if you can.
Where I stayed:
I stayed at the beautiful Grand Hotel Savoia, which is described as “a true jewel of the Belle Époque”. The location was excellent for exploring Genoa – I was able to comfortably walk everywhere. The hotel roof terrace was one of my favourite spots to enjoy an Aperol Spritz while watching the sunset (and I believe you can visit the bar for a drink even if you are not a hotel guest).
What to eat:
Genoa’s region, Liguria, is the birthplace of pesto, and so no visit is complete without enjoying “l’oro verde della Liguria” (the green gold of Liguria). As part of my “Eating Italy” series where I am making one dish from each of the twenty Italian regions, I made trofie with pesto alla genovese, potatoes, and green beans. Find the recipe here.
My pesto highlights were from Pestobene, which calls itself the “laboratorio di Genoa”, where I visited on many occasions for a simple slice of focaccia with vibrant, rich pesto; and from Trattoria delle Grazie where I had their famous gnocchi with pesto – it was heavenly. Trattoria delle Grazie felt like a classic Italian trattoria, with a buzzing atmosphere and classic dishes for a reasonable price.
Focaccia
Genoa is also the birthplace of focaccia, and during my long weekend, I made it my mission to enjoy as many flavours as I could: al pomodoro; al pesto genovese; con le olive; con le cipolle; di patate.
My favourite focaccia was from the iconic Focaccia e Dintorni – a family run, neighbourhood bakery that has been open since the 1980s. They have a couple of bakeries in the city centre and whilst there is usually a short queue, it is worth the wait. Focaccia truly is the best street food.
Focacceria Fossatello was also excellent – particularly the focaccia con le cipolle (onions).
Farinata
Another classic genovese street food is farinata; a simple recipe of chickpea flour, olive oil, and water. It is crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, and, as with many Italian recipes, the simplicity is what makes it so delicious.
Seafood
Being a historical port, Genoa is abundant in fresh seafood. One seafood restaurant at which I sadly did not manage to get a table was Trattoria dell’Acciughetta – it is recommended by many as one of the best seafood restaurants in Genoa, so I will definitely be sure to book a table in advance if I visit in the future. However, there are so many places in Genoa serving delicious, fresh seafood. One of the beet seafood dishes, in my opinion, is the fritto misto (fried seafood).
My favourite pasticceria for breakfast of cornetto alla crema and cappuccino was Pasticceria Cavo. It is an old school pasticceria with beautiful marble, tiles, and wooden panelling – so typically Italian and elegant.
One restaurant I would recommend to anyone visiting Genoa is Trattoria Rosmarino, a Michelin Guide restaurant, which serves classic Ligurian dishes. I thought the price of the menu was very reasonable considering the quality of the dishes and ingredients. I had pansoti (Ligurian pasta) stuffed with herbs and cheese with a hazelnut sauce, then Ligurian veal with a rich sauce and beautiful, pink onions.
What to do:
Genoa was previously named the European Capital of Culture and if you visit you will see why – you are spoiled for choice when it comes to the galleries, museums, and beautiful buildings and palazzi to explore.
Places that I visited and would recommend adding to your itinerary are:
Porto Antico; the historical port and the largest square on the Mediterranean. I went on the “Bigo” panoramic lift, which offers stunning views of the city.
Piazza de Ferrari; the piazza with the iconic fountain.
Palazzo Ducale; the Doge’s Palace, one of the historical symbols of Genoa, which houses art exhibitions and cultural events. It has a great view over Piazza de Ferrari.
Zecca-Righi funicular; this was a fun activity which links the city centre to a number of hillside districts, which have beautiful panoramic views of the city.
Favourite View
My favourite view of Genoa was from Spianata Castelletto. It was a tranquil place to sit and admire the golden hour sunshine. You can get there via the Zecca-Righi funicular (it is at the second stop – Carbonara) or by the Belvedere Montaldo, a beautiful art-nouveau style lift. I ended up walking there (up the seemingly never ending steps!), but would highly recommend taking the Belvedere Montaldo which I took on the way back. I had hoped to try the bar “Calice”, which has a number of local wines and aperitivo, but unfortunately it was closed with the Ferragosto holiday. It is on my list for next time!
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo; the most important church in Genoa. I loved the architecture of this building and the drama of the black and white stone, and marble lions.
From Genoa to Cinque Terre
Genoa is also an ideal location for exploring the Cinque Terre. Check out my guide on seeing the Cinque Terre here.
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