Solo Travel Guide to Taormina
Earlier this year, I spent a long weekend in Taormina, Sicily. You may recognise this beautiful city from season two of The White Lotus series, which, as the city’s residents will tell you, has dramatically increased the city’s popularity amongst tourists. I had been there before many years ago, but there is something magical about re-visiting a place you visited as a child, as an adult.
This not so hidden gem has magnificent views of Mount Etna and crystal clear Ionian sea beaches. Despite the popularity of Taormina, it is still very much worth a visit and with a little exploring, you can find some peace amongst the busy streets.
April, for me, was the ideal time to visit as there were fewer tourists and the temperature was cooler. (The last few years have been the hottest recorded in two centuries in Italy. A high of almost 49 degrees Celsius recorded in Sicily in summer 2021). I found that a long weekend was perfect amount of time to explore questa città bellissima.
Where I stayed:
I stayed at the beautiful Grand Hotel Timeo. Situated right next to Il Teatro Antico di Taormina, this wonderful hotel has breathtaking views of Mount Etna, beautiful botanical gardens, and is surrounded by the fragrance of jasmine and orange blossom. Grand Hotel Timeo was the ideal location for exploring Taormina and a quiet retreat from the crowds. The views from the terrace were equally as beautiful in the morning where I enjoyed a pistachio granita for breakfast, and in the evening whilst enjoying a spritz.
Where I ate:
The arancini at Da Cristina – Antica Rosticceria have been named the best arancini in Taormina by many. So, I had to try them! It was the perfect balance of ragù, peas, rice, and cheese. And, naturally, I enjoyed it with an Aperol spritz!
Bam Bar is another Taormina classic and a must visit. It is so typically Sicilian with the tiled tables and walls. The almond granita was unbelievably good and tasted so intensely of almonds – definitely the best granita I’ve ever had. I opted for the typical Sicilian way of eating granita, with a brioche.
Cooking Class Taormina
My trip to Sicily was a solo trip, so I decided to do a cookery class; I booked Cooking Class Taormina in Porta Messina Ristorante & Pizzeria, and it was a great experience. I had wanted to do an Italian cookery class for a long time, and I would definitely do it again. If you visit Taormina, I would highly recommend this class – Maurizio was a great teacher, and I loved his passion for Sicilian cooking. We made so many delicious dishes that I can’t wait to recreate: sarde a beccafico (sardines stuffed with sultanas and pine nuts, coated in breadcrumbs); maccheroni pasta with an aubergine sauce; aubergine parmigiana; fish baked in salt; swordfish involtini (rolled swordfish, also with sultanas and pine nuts). Maurizio also made cannoli for us, and we enjoyed lots of Sicilian wine.
Grand Hotel Timeo
I had aperitivo at Bar Timeo at the Grand Hotel Timeo, where I was staying. Even if you are not staying at the hotel, you can enjoy an aperitivo on the roof terrace. Enjoy stunning views of Mount Etna and Taormina (especially at sunset) and jazz music playing. I had a Sunset Spritz (Aperol infused with passion fruit and strawberries, maracuja cordial, Sicilian rosé sparkling wine, and ginger beer). All paired perfectly with the beautiful backdrop.
Caffe Wunderbar
Caffe Wunderbar was recommended to me, and it was a lovely spot to people watch and enjoy a leisurely lunch. I had (another) Aperol spritz and the tagliolini pasta with pistachio di Bronte e gambero rosso di Mazara (pistachio and prawn) and it was buonissimo! Bronte is a town on the slopes of Mount Etna and is famous for its pistachios which are also known as “green gold”. The fertile, lava rich soil from Etna create a purple outer layer, and the most intensely flavoured and deep green pistachios I have seen.
Osteria da Rita dal 1991
Osteria da Rita dal 1991 is a Taormina institution and was worth the wait. (I queued for around half an hour). It serves typical Sicilian dishes and is good value for the quality of the dishes. I had pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines, pine nuts, sultanas, wild fennel and toasted breadcrumbs), followed by involtini al pistachio. The involtini was one of my favourite dishes. The meat was so tender and I loved the combination of it with the pistachios.
What I did:
One of my most memorable moments of my solo trip to Sicily was hiking Mount Etna – the tallest active volcano in Europe and the most active stratovolcano in the world. Whilst hiking Etna, we saw the widely reported volcanic vortex rings emerging from the top. These rings are created from gas and water vapour being shot from a newly formed crater, reminding us of Etna’s almost continuous volcanic activity. The view from the top was breathtaking and it was an empowering and beautiful experience.
Il Teatro Antico di Taormina
If you visit Taormina, a must do is a visit to Il Teatro Antico di Taormina (ancient theatre). Il Teatro Antico is said to date back to the third century BC. It is the second largest ancient theatre in Sicily, after the Greek Theatre in Syracuse. The architecture is a combination of both Ancient Greek and Roman Empire elements, which makes it very unique and fascinating.
How to End Your Weekend in Taormina
After visiting Il Teatro Antico, I would recommend a stroll through the nearby Villa Comunale gardens. The gardens were created by a Scottish woman, Lady Florence Trevelyan, in the late nineteenth century. Lady Trevelyan left the scandal of an affair with the future King Edward VII and came to Taormina, where she married a doctor who later became the mayor of Taormina. She created these gardens which later became open to the public. A wander through these beautiful gardens, adorned with tropical plants and delicate jasmine, and with more breathtaking views of Mount Etna, is the perfect way to escape the busy streets of Taormina.
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