The island of Procida – the capitale italiani della cultura (Italian Capital of Culture) 2022 and the backdrop of films such as The Talented Mr Ripley and Il Postino – is the smallest of three volcanic islands off the coast of Naples, the other two being Capri and Ischia. Procida truly feels like an unspoiled and understated gem and is a beautiful destination worthy of adding to your travel list.
How to get there
From Naples International Airport, take the Alibus to Molo Beverello ferry terminal (around 30 minutes and only €5). Then, you can take either a ferry or hydrofoil to Procida.
By ferry, the journey is around 1 hour and by hydrofoil (high speed ferry), around 35 minutes.
The ferry and hydrofoil schedules vary depending on the season, so I’d recommend checking and booking in advance. I used this website for timetables and to book my ticket: Ferry from Naples Beverello to Procida – Tickets and Schedules.
What to do
When you arrive on Procida, you will arrive at Marina Grande – the main port area. Although there are many cafes, restaurants, and artisan shops in this area, it doesn’t feel touristy – it feels authentic.
The most iconic place to visit on Procida is Marina di Corricella; an ancient fishing village with pastel-coloured houses. I read somewhere that the houses were painted in different colours so that fishermen could recognise their house from the sea. Whatever the reason, the colours look beautiful against the backdrop of the crystal clear sea, whether that is in the morning or at golden hour.
La Corricella can be accessed only by foot – enjoy the walk through the narrow streets and down the stairs from Piazza dei Martiri (Semmarezio). It is easy to get lost in some of the hidden stairways, but all stairs lead to La Corricella.
Terra Murata
In my opinion, the best view of La Corricella is from the viewpoint at the top of Terra Murata (which literally means walled land). It is the highest point on the island, and the panoramic views literally look like a postcard.
At the top of the viewpoint at Terra Murata, there is a stand that sells fresh lemonade. Procida is known for its lemons and is often referred to as the Island of Lemons. Unfortunately, as I was there in October, it was not lemon season – although it is nice to have a reason to go back in the spring or summer months.
I didn’t have time to go to any of the beaches on Procida, but, again, it is something I will do on a future trip. Despite its small size, Procida has a number of stunning beaches. Whether you choose the more central Chiaia beach next to La Corricella, or the more tranquil Ciraccio beach with its rock formations, nature, and views of Ischia, there is something for everyone.
Where to eat
Whilst I was only on Procida for 24 hours, of course my priority was food, and there were so many great options to choose from. My favourites were:
Paname forno Indipendente – an independent bakery with a focus on sustainability. I had a panino with bresaola, and the bread was perfect; I love bakeries like this where they focus on making simple things but to a high standard and using high quality ingredients. I think that is something that is seen throughout Italy – simple food, with a focus on quality and flavour.
La Lampara – I would highly recommend eating here if you visit Procida. It is situated at La Corricella, and the focus is on seafood caught by local fishermen. If you can, sit outside on the terrace; the views are stunning – especially at sunset, and after sunset with the reflections on the water and the sound of the waves. I had alici marinate (marinated anchovies) with orange salad, burrata, and mint, then capunti pasta with seafood and courgette. Both dishes were perfect – the flavour combinations were delicious, the seafood was fresh, and it was so typically Italian.
Bar Roma Pasticceria – an institution on Procida and famous for their lingua di bue (or lingua di Procida). Lingua di bue – literally translated to ox’s tongue – is a pastry filled with fragrant lemon cream and topped with a sprinkle of granulated sugar. The best breakfast with a cappuccino.
If you go to Procida during summer months, be sure to try the lemon salad (insalata di limoni or insalata di Procida) made using the island’s special lemons with mint, garlic, chilli, and olive oil. Procida lemons are much bigger than usual and are colloquially known as the “limone pane” (bread lemon) because of their texture – it is described as being like bread.
Where to stay
I stayed at GL Exclusive Luxury Suite, which I would highly recommend. It is beautifully renovated to a modern and high standard, reasonably priced, and was in the ideal location – right next to La Corricella. It was perfect for exploring Procida. The owner, Giulio, was super helpful and welcoming. I look forward to returning to Procida and staying here again.
