Character in Every Bubble: My Journey Through the Champagne Experience in Bologna

On October 5 and 6, Bologna became Italy’s capital of Champagne as it hosted the Champagne Experience for the first time. Now in its eighth edition — after seven sparkling years in Modena — the event brought together 145 maisons and more than 700 labels, from legendary names to small artisanal producers. Over time, Champagne Experience has become a reference point for professionals and enthusiasts alike, capturing Champagne in all its nuances of tradition, innovation, and shared passion.

Between iconic maisons and new discoveries, these two days allowed me to breathe in both the history and the future of Champagne. I also had the pleasure of attending a masterclass led by Alberto Lupetti, which made me reflect on what it truly means to be part of the “Spécial Club.”

There’s a moment, just after stepping through the doors of the Bologna Champagne Experience, when time seems to slow down. The sound of corks popping, the chime of glasses, and voices intertwining create an atmosphere as effervescent as the wines themselves.

The event was born with a clear purpose: to bring the culture of Champagne closer to the Italian public — not as an elite beverage, but as a symbol of identity, terroir, and lifestyle.

The Maisons

Guests could taste labels organized by Champagne’s geographic areas — Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, and Côte des Bar. Strolling among the stands felt like a sensory journey from the legendary houses to lesser-known producers full of personality.

Among the great names, Bollinger, founded in 1829, remains a certainty for me — structured and uncompromising, known for its power and refinement, particularly thanks to its use of Pinot Noir. Each sip tells a story of balance between strength and elegance. I tasted the PN 2020 and La Grande Année 2016, both expressing freshness, elegance, and complexity.

Louis Roederer, founded in 1776, represents elegance in its purest form. The maison continues to interpret Champagne with precision and clarity. Its Brut Premier, Collection, and Vintage cuvées embody a modern spirit — innovation without ever losing soul.

Then there’s EPC, young and visionary, speaking to a new generation of Champagne lovers through transparency, sustainability, and design. It abandons the idea of Champagne as a status symbol and focuses instead on taste and essence.

Among the more classic labels, I also appreciated Cattier and Deutz — solid, consistent houses capable of expressing terroir without artifice.

Yet, the beauty of an event like this lies in discovery.

Among my new favorites were Valentin Leflaive, bringing Burgundy’s refined style to the world of bubbles; Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, tasted later during Lupetti’s masterclass on the Spécial Club, a perfect emblem of Chardonnay purity from the Côte des Blancs; Monmarthe, a family-run maison with genuine character; and Paul Clouet, producing balanced, refined Champagnes that exude authenticity and craftsmanship.

Each encounter was a fragment of a larger story — that of Champagne itself, forever reinventing without losing its roots.

The Masterclass with Alberto Lupetti and the Spécial Club

One of the most meaningful moments of the event was the masterclass with Alberto Lupetti — an experience that stays with you.

For those unfamiliar with him, Lupetti is one of Italy’s foremost Champagne experts and author of La mia Champagne and Krug, la mia passione. His voice combines deep technical knowledge with true passion, guiding listeners into Champagne’s heart through emotion as much as expertise.

The theme focused on the “Spécial Club,” a selection of Champagnes born in 1971 from the Club Trésors de Champagne — a group of Récoltant-Manipulant (independent growers) who joined forces to promote their finest cuvées.

The idea was simple yet revolutionary: to create a shared bottle, easily recognizable, reserved only for each maison’s most representative Champagne — the one that best expressed its terroir and artisanal soul.

Bologna Champagne Experience - Champagne paired with caviar
All images courtesy of Piera Demartis

During the tasting, paired with Calvisius Tradition Royal caviar, we sampled three labels:

  • Champagne H. Goutorbe Spécial Club Millésimé
  • Champagne Paul Bara Spécial Club Rosé
  • Champagne Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Spécial Club Millésimé

A rich, complex sensory journey that balanced Pinot Noir’s structure with Chardonnay’s mineral tension.

Personally, I was captivated by H. Goutorbe for its structure and elegance — a long finish that paired beautifully with the buttery notes of the caviar. A near-perfect match.

And yet, as I left the room, I found myself wondering: perhaps the Spécial Club is no longer as “special” as it once was.

It once helped small producers distinguish themselves from the major houses, defending the dignity of independent growers. Today, however, there are extraordinary Champagnes outside the club that tell their stories with equal authenticity and expressive power.

Maybe Champagne’s true essence doesn’t lie in a label or badge — but in the sensitivity of those who craft it, and those who appreciate it.

The Truth in the Bubbles

The Bologna Champagne Experience is a place where bubbles become language, and every maison adds a new word to Champagne’s vast vocabulary.

Among glasses, encounters, and conversations, I realized that what makes this experience truly unique isn’t only the quality of the wines, but the stories behind each label — stories of people, choices, risks, and time.

If I had to summarize what I took away from Bologna, I would say that Champagne is not a wine to celebrate — it is a wine that celebrates life itself.

Piera Demartis

Ciao! I’m Piera, and I’m from Sardegna. I am an AIS-certified sommelier and a qualified Food & Wine Writer with the Scuola Italiana Sommelier. Wine has become my greatest passion, and I love talking about it not only as a drink, but as a journey through cultures, territories, and people. Every glass tells a story—a bridge connecting people and places with their roots. I enjoy visiting wineries, meeting producers, and transforming their words into stories that inspire others to travel. When I’m not in the vineyards, you’ll find me exploring new flavors, landscapes, and traditions to share—always with a glass in hand and Sardegna in my heart.

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