Papal Transition: What to Expect in Rome

The pope has passed; the papal transition is in effect; and you’re in Rome.

During the novemdiales (nine days of mourning), preparations for the pope’s funeral will begin. Cardinals will arrive for the funeral, conclave, and election of the new pope. They will sequester themselves in the Sistine Chapel until they elect a new pope. How will all of these preparations and events during the papal transition affect your plans?

St. Peter’s Square and Basilica

St. Peter’s Square and Basilica will remain open during the papal transition. The funeral and other major events will undoubtedly cause some changes to times when you can enter. In addition, the media and large crowds will fill both, making access difficult.

Keep in mind that during the Funeral and Inauguration Masses, the basilica will not be open, although the faithful do gather in the square.

If You Decide to Go

Should you want to brave the crowds, you will need time and patience. St. Peter’s Square is always very crowded, and during the conclave, it will likely be shoulder-to-shoulder. If crowds make you anxious, the square and basilica are definitely not places you want to be during conclave.

One other note if you do go: Do not use big purses or backpacks or drag roller bags with you. They will, in the first place, just be too bulky and take up space. Even more importantly, they are a pickpocket’s dream. Try to put everything you want to take inside a jacket or zippered pocket, and be aware of your surroundings.

Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

As in the past, the Vatican Museums will undoubtedly remain open during the papal transition. The Sistine Chapel, however, will be closed for the conclave. Preparations and events may impact your ability to quickly pass from the museums to the basilica.

If You Decide to Go

The Vatican Museums are always crowded, so it is best not to carry too much with you.

Santa Maria Maggiore

While Pope Francis’s funeral will be at St. Peter’s Basilica, he simplified the liturgy and eliminated pomp and pagentry. More importantly, instead of being buried at St. Peter’s, his body will rest at Santa Maria Maggiore.

Since becoming pope in 2013, Francis visited Santa Maria Maggiore over 100 times due to his devotion to the Holy Mother. In 2023, he stated, “I want to be buried in Santa Maria Maggiore… as I always promised to the Virgin.”

This decision will, undoubtedly, affect opening times for the basilica.

If You Decide to Go

It is best to check the opening schedule for Santa Maria Maggiore if you plan to visit around the time of the pope’s funeral.

Should You Change Your Plans?

There is no reason to change your plans. You will just have to be a little more patient and adaptable during this time of papal transition.

Chris Cutler

Travel Editor

Christine Cutler is a writer, photographer, editor, guide, teacher, traveler, Ohio native, Florida resident, and world citizen. she lives in downtown St. Petersburg with her husband and crazy Welsh terrier, and she considers Italy, where she holds dual citizenship, her second home. in addition to being travel editor and writing for live in Italy magazine, she maintains her own websites (coldpastaandredwine.com and christinecutler.com), guides small groups through Italy, and is a travel advisor for Adventures by Jamie (adventuresbyjamie.com) a travel, non-fiction, and memoir writer; photographer; and editor whose work has appeared in various publications, she spends as much time as she can exploring—and living and breathing—Italy.