Winter in Siena has the scent of vanilla, almond, and spices. Spring brings rice, sugar, and lemon peel. Summer in Siena tastes like a special ice cream dessert…
In Siena, the rhythm of the seasons, along with the changing foliage, temperatures, and daylight, is marked by the scent of cakes and cookies in bakeries and pastry shops.
Siena is dolce, which in Italian means both “cake” and “sweet,” but also “sugary” and “slow-paced” (dolce, dolcemente).
Autumn & Winter: Sugar and Spice and All Things Nice
If you happen to be here in November, during All Saints’ Day, you’ll walk along the terracotta streets, surrounded by the scent of Vin Santo, walnuts, pepper, and raisins—the ingredients of a local specialty: Pancosanti, the “bread of saints.”
The aroma continues to fill the air throughout the autumn months, until the holiday season begins. By the end of November, Siena starts to smell of nuts and spices, and the Christmas spirit begins to settle in. Not so long ago, family-run cake factories were located within the city walls, or just outside. That’s why the whole city was truly filled with the scents and aromas of cakes.
The festive season is characterized by the production of typical dolci senesi, a rich variety of cakes, cookies, and pastries with unusual names and recipes dating back to the Middle Ages. At that time, sugar was not readily available, so honey was used instead. Additionally, there were no methods of food preservation, which is why the renowned Panforte and Panpepato, as the names suggest, are rich in black pepper and other spices to aid in preserving the food.
Ricciarelli, Cavallucci, Panforte, Torta di Cecco, and the hard-to-find Copate (nougat cream between two thin wafers), made by nuns in convents, are present on the table in every household in Siena.
End of Winter… Is Lemon and Rice
As the Christmas season fades, by the end of January, if you walk into the heart of the city, Piazza del Campo, you will feel the anticipation in the air. People are waiting for the traditional wooden chalet to be placed unmistakably in the left-hand corner of the square. That’s when the scent of lemon peel, vanilla rice pudding, and sugar—along with frittelle (fried pastries)—surrounds the elegant Piazza like an invisible mantle.
Frittelle are traditionally made for Father’s Day in Italy, also known as San Giuseppe Day, on March 19th. But in Siena, the preparation starts much earlier. Here, frittelle are a sought-after tradition. Along with the short Carnevale break, with its Cenci (sugary fried thin pastries known by different names in each Italian region), the arrival of frittelle in the square marks the period between the end of January and March. And so, Spring begins…
Easter Time: Chocolate and Anise Seeds
Easter in Italy is, everywhere, about chocolate eggs and Colomba (the traditional Easter cake). In Siena, though, we also have simple traditional cookies called Corolli, flavored with anise. These can’t be found in most patisseries, as they are typically made at home or in local bakeries.
They are made with the same recipe as the Tuscan Easter Schiacciata, a sweet preparation enriched with anise seeds and liqueurs, cooked in panettone molds. The result is a kind of soft and tasty “bread” with an aromatic flavor, perfect for breakfast or for an Easter Monday picnic (Pasquetta).
Summer is as Sweet as Bacio di Siena
I could give you my personal guide to the best gelaterias in Siena (and, believe me, they are not all the same!), but there is another specialty worth knowing that characterizes Siena during the summer months.
A special type of ice cream dessert, individually wrapped, called Bacio di Siena. A monoporzione (single portion) of iced vanilla cream, crunchy nougat pieces, candied fruits, and dark chocolate.
If you haven’t tried it yet, it’s worth stopping at one of my favorite gelaterias to taste what summer in Siena feels like!
Practice Italian with Chiara!
